02 code eliminators

Papa Rad17 · 07-23-2014, 01:53 AM

The 1ufd and 1meg resistor code eliminator is not working like it did on the mustang. I have also tried the spark plug non-fouler trick with worse results. From my understanding of how it works its osculating to much w/o the cat. I dont have an oscilloscope but I checked with my meter. nothing hooked up it hung more around .9v down to .189 about normal a little high though. with the cap frequency seemed to be the same from what little I could tell but .8 down to .17 a little better. My knowledge of electronics tells me a bigger cap, filter more ripple. keep it a more constant .5v as if the catalytic converter is doing its job. would anyone with proper exhaust and a meter be willing to confirm voltage? I cant seem to find any 02 sims so I'm banking on this.

a.graham52 · 07-23-2014, 05:57 AM

Get the ECM tuned and delete the dtcs

[ion] C2 · 07-23-2014, 07:06 AM

yep now that i can edit your tune it's really easy
too bad you're super far away

Papa Rad17 · 07-23-2014, 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by [ion] C2

yep now that i can edit your tune it's really easy
too bad you're super far away

The spark plug non-foulers may have worked though! I got the code read, its P0141 for the heater circuit on it. not low catalyst efficiency. Have I just traded one code for another or my sensor gone bad again? It was replaced in April when I got the car but was in there with a bad cat this whole time. I wouldnt see that causing a problem with the heater circuit part of it though O.o

Papa Rad17 · 07-23-2014, 05:51 PM

I just read a c1275 for EBCM Internal Solenoid Circuit "Powertrain Control Module Requested ETS To Be Disabled" on the reader. from what I've found its usually with brake problems but sometimes others. Seeing as how I dont have anything else, anyone think their is some relation there or different problems?
edit: I believe the heater circuit failure was my fault. I got back under there and found I had nicked one of the power wires, its quite possible it was the source of the problem.

Papa Rad17 · 07-23-2014, 11:03 PM

Sorry multiple posts. I tried to rear voltage again, I couldnt read the 12v for the heater circuit on the sensor. I brought it in and hooked up 12v and it worked. I let it unplugged for now, I'm done messing with it at this point, who wants to tune this crap out for me?

sleepyalero · 07-24-2014, 03:22 PM

I can lol we have been talking sir.

Papa Rad17 · 07-24-2014, 04:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sleepyalero

I can lol we have been talking sir.

Probably just going to bite the bullet and have you do it. the plug going to it is getting no voltage for the heater circuit. The harness its tied into plugs into the trans in a few different places so its clearly supposed to pull its 12v from somewhere around there. I'm not about to go hooking up power to it to get it to work and end up frying something someplace else. the signal wires are giving a constant .395v which is about right so I'm going to see if it sends that proper signal for the sensor if it will ignore the other crap. if it works yay, if not its staying unplugged and getting tuned out.

sleepyalero · 07-24-2014, 08:19 PM

You can leave it plugged in, and tune it out. It will basically act like its not there. So that helps you with a dangeling wire.

Papa Rad17 · 07-24-2014, 09:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sleepyalero

You can leave it plugged in, and tune it out. It will basically act like its not there. So that helps you with a dangeling wire.

I'm probably going to cut everything from the sensor off. I already have the plug wrapped in tape and zip tied up out of the way. Will be one less to worry about when I get new exhaust done to.

03glgold · 07-24-2014, 10:09 PM

What happens if you ever ended up moving to somewhere requiring inspection...cutting the wire is a bad idea imo

Papa Rad17 · 07-25-2014, 01:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 03glgold

What happens if you ever ended up moving to somewhere requiring inspection...cutting the wire is a bad idea imo

that wont be happening for at least another two years if it does. at which time I would need more than a sensor to pass inspection. Its something im not worried about. Im not going to just go hacking away, I'll cut it so it can be crimped back together

03glgold · 07-25-2014, 07:09 AM

As sensitive as the o2 sensor wiring is anyways i dont see you getting a proper signal again

Papa Rad17 · 07-25-2014, 10:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 03glgold

As sensitive as the o2 sensor wiring is anyways i dont see you getting a proper signal again

nothing will be right until the heater circuit receives its 12v. I couldnt find anything obvious in the wire harness and I have nothing else to go off of as of yet. What is so sensitive about it? its regular multi-strand wire, you can cut it and re crimp it as many times as you like, as long as theres a good connection current will flow.

sleepyalero · 07-25-2014, 03:29 PM

Papa sorry. Got off work to late and had to be up early today so didnt get a chance to look for that one code.... I will try tonight.

Papa Rad17 · 07-25-2014, 05:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sleepyalero

Papa sorry. Got off work to late and had to be up early today so didnt get a chance to look for that one code.... I will try tonight.

no worries that one is fixed. I'd just need the 02 removed and maybe speed limiter if you know how to do that one. lol

sleepyalero · 07-25-2014, 09:27 PM

I do know how to do that. And rev limit changes too. And fans.

Papa Rad17 · 07-26-2014, 02:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sleepyalero

I do know how to do that. And rev limit changes too. And fans.

awesome! so, from the sounds of it all the basic crap I've been wanting done, effing perfect! I'll shoot you a text when I get paid and go from there.

sleepyalero · 07-26-2014, 06:38 PM

Okay sounds good man. I know how to do real basic stuff but tuning performance wise is out of my knowledge.... for now.